By the middle of the 16th century, the Swiss watch industry was so dominant that it drew the ire of French theologian Jean Calvin. They had always made watches, after all, but these new timepieces would be more utilitarian and less decorative. And by 1897 the company had built a sterling reputation and a workforce of 80 professional watchmakers, making it one of the largest watch manufacturers in all of Switzerland. The industry continued to grow and by the end of the 19th century, Swiss watchmakers were exporting more than 60,000 timepieces a year. In 1876, the boy’s family moved from Alsace, France to a small village in the Jura Mountains. It was one of the first times ergonomics had been used to design a watch. They worked around the clock (no pun intended!). Many of these early designs won awards at expositions in Paris, Brussels and Geneva. On the twenty-fifth anniversary of its founding, Ditesheim finally decided to give his company a proper name. One of these talented young lads was a watchmaker’s assistant by the name of Achille Ditesheim. It was often said that Geneva had become a city of watchmakers. In 1905, he christened it Movado, an Esperanto word that means “always in motion.” The company would live up to its new name by consistently embracing new technologies and designs. The company was one of the first to use electricity and complicated machinery in place of simple watch making hand tools that had been used for centuries. The Swiss city of Geneva became the unofficial world capital of horology (watch making) when the first watchmakers guild was established there in 1601. By that time, Swiss watches were famous for their quality, efficiency and accuracy. In fact, it was so competitive that many young horologists decided to relocate to the Jura Mountains. Apparently, the influential pastor was not particularly fond of jewelry and his reforms would eventually result in a ban on certain precious metals and jewels. Five years later, young Achille set up a small workshop and hired six local watchmakers. As a result, many goldsmiths were forced to create or rather redefine a new craft. He was only 14 years old at the time, but he already knew what he wanted. How did this happen? In 1912, Movado introduced its famous Polyplan watch that had an innovative curved design that was meant to conform to the wearer’s wrist. Like many successful businessmen, Ditesheim was a visionary and he was not afraid to experiment with new technologies. All told, Movado has received over 100 patents and more than 200 international awards, most of which were for design.
The recognition of their peers and strong sales helped the company become an international brand, and by 1920 Movado was producing more than 700 different wristwatch models. Though Movado has always considered itself a luxury brand, many of their most popular watches were available in affordable base model versions. In fact, the original version of the Ermeto was etched in silver and good and was trimmed with diamonds and rubies. Named after the handsome silent movie star Rudolf Valentino, the eponymous timepiece was encased in snakeskin. The Ermeto, on the other hand, featured a far more innovative design. It was a pocket watch that could be held in a box, and when the case was opened, the watch automatically wound itself. Most experts consider the Ermeto the original travel clock. For example, the Ermeto and the Valentino could be purchased with precious metals or stones. Their two most famous watches from this period were the Ermeto and the Valentino. Unlike most Swiss watch companies that stubbornly hewed to tradition, Movado continued to experiment with new technologies.
But by the mid-1990s, North American had righted the ship and the company was once again growing.
In the 1930s, the company produced one of the world’s first digital watches and a short time later they were working on water-resistant models. With strong international sales and a sizable share of the luxury market, Movado brings in about a half a billion dollars in revenues each year. A decade later the company offered a more rugged version of the original called the Kingmatic. Like many traditional Swiss watch companies, Movado lost most of its market share during the quartz watch revolution of the 1970s. These economical, battery-powered watches appealed to consumers who could not afford luxury brands. But when it comes to the single most popular Movado watch, their signature model, there is really no debate. The famous Movado Museum Watch was introduced in 1962. It’s black numberless dial and elegant design was so influential that the prototype was donated to the Museum of Modern Art. It was called the Tempomatic and it was a global hit. But by the mid-1990s, North American had righted the ship and the company was once again growing. At the end of the Second World War, the Movado introduced the first automatic winding wristwatch. At the time of the acquisition, Movado was actually losing money for the first time in its long and proud history. In 1983, the legendary company was acquired by one of the world’s largest watch distributers, North American.
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