BEIJING, March 20 (Reuters) – Vivian Wang bought a gold medallion decorated with a carved dragon from Laopu Gold nearly a decade ago, but forgot about the brand until last year when it appeared all over her social media feeds. As rising gold prices in 2024 pushed investors toward bullion and coins and gold jewelry sales in China fell 24.69% to 532.02 tons, Laopu twice raised prices on its designer jewelry and trinkets. But a source with direct knowledge of Laopu’s business said its annual sales approached 10 billion yuan in 2024, up from 3.18 billion in the previous year. Wang decided to brave the lines outside Laopu’s Shanghai store in tourist hub Yu Garden to make another purchase, this time an intricate jewelry box constructed from thinly woven gold strands with a dragon and phoenix on the lid. Wang said she would like to pass it on to her 8-year-old daughter one day. Laopu Gold is a notable outlier in China’s luxury goods market, which has been hammered by an extended consumer malaise due to concerns over job and wage security and a prolonged property slump. It again upped prices by 5-12% last month. Its exclusivity is drawn in part from a strategy pulled from the playbook of its Western competitors. Swiping through post after post about Laopu Gold, the sales and marketing professional from Shanghai came across her dragon medallion, which was now selling for double what she paid at 220,000 yuan ($30,440.14). Investors have been paying attention. The strategy has been fortified by its use of gold, considered a safe investment by Chinese consumers during periods of instability. With prices for most of its popular products ranging from 10,000 to 50,000 yuan, Laopu now competes more directly with Western luxury brands such as Tiffany and Cartier. Since its Hong Kong IPO in June 2024, Laopu’s share price has surged ten-fold, from HK$40.50 to HK$725 ($93.30). Laopu Gold did not respond to interview requests from Reuters. Wang said, citing rival retail chains owned by LVMH and Richemont. The company has blended Chinese cultural elements within contemporary designs to emerge as a uniquely homegrown luxury brand.
Laopu has also eschewed the spot price for gold to which other domestic competitors peg their selling rates, charging a premium for design and branding. But analysts say Laopu is a contender to fully break through the luxury glass ceiling. Jonathan Yan, a principal at consultancy Roland Berger in Shanghai. While Chinese brands have stolen market share from Nike in sportswear and L’Oreal in beauty, they have struggled to threaten global luxury players which charge a premium for storytelling, heritage and design. And while gold-focussed brands including Chow Tai Fook and Lao Feng Xiang each have store networks in the thousands, Laopu has chosen to keep its retail experience exclusive. It has just 37 stores across greater China, including Hong Kong and Macau, and now plans to enter the international market with an upcoming Singapore store. Other brands might sell similarly weighted products for 900 yuan per gram in line with the 700 yuan per gram price of gold. High-profile entrants in this space, such as clothing and furniture maker Shang Xia (co-founded by Hermes but since sold to Ferrari-owner Exor) and the Kering-owned jewelry brand Qeelin, have found a niche audience for products that attempt to balance Chinese and Western luxury elements. Its best-selling gourd-shaped pendant – a symbol of good fortune in Chinese culture – contains 24.4 grams of gold but sells for over 29,000 yuan, nearly 1,200 yuan per gram.
Engraved Sterling Silver Rings
If you’re as magpie-like about jewellery as I am, you’ll always be on the lookout for new brands and original pieces to add to your collection. All Grove & Vae jewellery is designed in London, and created using 14k gold vermeil and rhodium-plated sterling silver. There are so many amazing affordable and mid-range jewellery brands out there today, with a plethora of choice no matter what your style. But along with the prominent brands we all know and love, there are a load of under-the-radar gems (no pun intended) out there just waiting to be discovered. If you love keeping things unique and prefer to shop independent, these jewellery brands are worth checking out and keeping in mind for your next purchase. Tilly Sveaas founded her eponymous brand in 2016. Born in Hong Kong to British-Norwegian parents, London-based Tilly has been a jewellery designer for over 25 years, creating her first pieces during an extended trip to Bali, where she still produces to this day. Otiumberg positions itself as a demi-fine jewellery brand. The brand’s founders, sisters Christie and Rosanna Wollenberg, believe you shouldn’t just save beautiful jewellery for best, so the sculptural rings and earrings are as practical as they are elegant. Her signature T-bar necklaces have been worn by the likes of Taylor Swift. This British brand was launched in the autumn of 2024 by Tofi Caroline Adedoyin, a former investment banking director. Their goal is to make pieces that ‘will be your go-to for years to come’.
The brand uses solid metals – not plated or vermeil, and promises no green fingers or brass rash.
The brand focuses on creating timeless, versatile pieces tailored to the modern woman’s everyday wardrobe. With Love Darling believes in changing the world one piece of jewellery at a time. Founded by Amelia Hitchcock-Merritt in the middle of lockdown at just eighteen, Bijoux De Mimi became one of the fastest growing jewellery brands in the UK. Items are produced in developing countries, giving the artisans income to lift themselves and their families out of poverty. It specialises in bright, colourful jewellery. The brand uses solid metals – not plated or vermeil, and promises no green fingers or brass rash. After working in the jewellery industry for 10 years, Amelia Bainbridge saw a gap in the market for jewellery that was both beautiful and affordable – and Auree was born in 2014. All Auree pieces are made with the highest quality solid gold, sterling silver or gold vermeil and natural gemstones. So she decided to make her own. It always came with lengthy care instructions and still tarnished after only a few wears or turned my skin green’ she says. The pieces are gorgeous too – from delicate pendants to eye-catching hoops, available in either 18ct gold vermeil or sterling silver. Think timeless glamour meets modern minimalism, without the unattainable price tag. Prior to starting Bijoux De Mimi, Amelia attended Central Saint Martins. I was tired of sacrificing style for quality, or my bank account for both’ says Neima Row founder Naomi Genes. Crystals & Co. founders (and best friends) Emily Mackeogh and Leah O’Reilly aim to accessorise peoples lives with fun, high quality affordable jewellery. Made by small workshops all over the world, each piece holds a story. Catherine ‘Catch’ Rhys Jones started her label out of a frustration with the jewellery she was buying.
It was established in 2009, with the ethos that jewellery should say a lot about who you are, whether big and bold or delicate and gold. Scream Pretty’s signature style is the curated ear – combining piercings and ear cuffs, to create bold stand out styling. Founded by Olivia Jenkins in 2021, D. Louise creates timeless long-lasting yet affordable jewellery. Dreamt up on a bicycle ride through Rajasthan, India, the British jewellery brand Memara was launched in 2019, with the aim to create beautiful, timeless yet affordable demi-fine pieces. After growing up in Singapore, founder Lynette Ong left her job in finance to pursue a dream of using her creativity for the better. Abby is a big believer in the talismanic and restorative power of jewellery, and strives to create designs that are both ethical and fashioned with love. The brand is named after Olivia’s mother Deborah Louise who Olivia sadly lost to cancer in 2017. With the loss of her mother, Olivia felt life was too short to not be truly passionate about the everyday and D.Louise was born. Olivia’s pursuit began when she identified a gap in the jewellery market – the need for everyday pieces that wouldn’t fade after a few wears – with this every piece comes with a lifetime guarantee against colour fading. The ranges include a collaboration with Vogue Williams. Pieces are made in sterling silver with 18ct gold vermeil. Award winning British Jewellery Brand Scream Pretty was founded by Lucy Lee with her sister Jessica Pearce in 2016. This family run business designs jewellery for self expression; affordable, stylish and fun – jewellery to shout about. The eclectic collection draws inspiration from founder Abby Kaye’s past experiences and travels through India, as well as her childhood in London and love of nature.