If you’ve ever found yourself wondering about the beauty standards Western women are held up to, then you should perhaps also spare a thought for the Mwila tribeswomen of Angola. The colours in their hair, their necklaces and the unique way they dress is how they keep their tradition alive. They coat their hair with a red paste, called oncula, which is made from crushed red stone and also put a mix of oil, crushed tree bark, dried cow dung and herbs on their hair. Among the most striking of all Angola’s remote tribes, the Mwila people are known for their elaborate dresses, jewellery and hairstyles. The 38-year-old met the tribeswomen in the Huila Province of Southern Angola. The Mwila are also known for their dresses, which feature loud colour schemes and eye-catching patterns. The women we met are strong and hard working, in some places I saw them work harder than the men. Because the necklaces and hairstyles take so long to create, women wear them all the time – including while sleeping. While Mwila styles are designed to be striking, the dress codes also act as important symbols, telling viewers about the women and their lives. The women are also expected to wear huge necklaces, made from a mixture of mud and beads, which they keep on at all times – including while sleeping. Necklaces are also used as a means of demonstrating sexual maturity, with young women wearing smaller necklaces, usually of red or yellow. The number of braids in their hair – usually between four and six – denotes whether they have reached maturity, but three braids indicates there has been a death in their family. Mwila hairstyles also represent important parts of a woman’s life. Adult women are expected to style their hair using a mixture of oil, crushed tree bark, butter, dried cow dung and herbs in order to shape it into thick dreadlocks which are then dyed using oncula, a type of crushed rock. As they grow older, more coloured bands of beads are added, indicating different stages of life. Dog on the run! Specialist tour operator and photographer Evi Arbay was taking a group of Indonesian tourists on a tour of Namibia and Angola when she captured the photographs of the Mwila tribe. Ms Arbay, of Jakarta, Indonesia, said: ‘On the tours we love to meet special people wherever we go and this encounter with the Mumuila people was a special thing. These dreads are then embellished using shells, beads and sometimes dried food to make them even more elaborate and eye-catching.

If you’re as magpie-like about jewellery as I am, you’ll always be on the lookout for new brands and original pieces to add to your collection. Tilly Sveaas founded her eponymous brand in 2016. Born in Hong Kong to British-Norwegian parents, London-based Tilly has been a jewellery designer for over 25 years, creating her first pieces during an extended trip to Bali, where she still produces to this day. There are so many amazing affordable and mid-range jewellery brands out there today, with a plethora of choice no matter what your style. The brand’s founders, sisters Christie and Rosanna Wollenberg, believe you shouldn’t just save beautiful jewellery for best, so the sculptural rings and earrings are as practical as they are elegant. Their goal is to make pieces that ‘will be your go-to for years to come’. This British brand was launched in the autumn of 2024 by Tofi Caroline Adedoyin, a former investment banking director. If you love keeping things unique and prefer to shop independent, these jewellery brands are worth checking out and keeping in mind for your next purchase. But along with the prominent brands we all know and love, there are a load of under-the-radar gems (no pun intended) out there just waiting to be discovered. Her signature T-bar necklaces have been worn by the likes of Taylor Swift. All Grove & Vae jewellery is designed in London, and created using 14k gold vermeil and rhodium-plated sterling silver. Otiumberg positions itself as a demi-fine jewellery brand.

Made by small workshops all over the world, each piece holds a story.

The brand focuses on creating timeless, versatile pieces tailored to the modern woman’s everyday wardrobe. So she decided to make her own. Prior to starting Bijoux De Mimi, Amelia attended Central Saint Martins. It specialises in bright, colourful jewellery. The pieces are gorgeous too – from delicate pendants to eye-catching hoops, available in either 18ct gold vermeil or sterling silver. Made by small workshops all over the world, each piece holds a story. Items are produced in developing countries, giving the artisans income to lift themselves and their families out of poverty. With Love Darling believes in changing the world one piece of jewellery at a time. The brand uses solid metals – not plated or vermeil, and promises no green fingers or brass rash. Founded by Amelia Hitchcock-Merritt in the middle of lockdown at just eighteen, Bijoux De Mimi became one of the fastest growing jewellery brands in the UK. Catherine ‘Catch’ Rhys Jones started her label out of a frustration with the jewellery she was buying. Think timeless glamour meets modern minimalism, without the unattainable price tag. I was tired of sacrificing style for quality, or my bank account for both’ says Neima Row founder Naomi Genes. After working in the jewellery industry for 10 years, Amelia Bainbridge saw a gap in the market for jewellery that was both beautiful and affordable – and Auree was born in 2014. All Auree pieces are made with the highest quality solid gold, sterling silver or gold vermeil and natural gemstones. It always came with lengthy care instructions and still tarnished after only a few wears or turned my skin green’ she says. Crystals & Co. founders (and best friends) Emily Mackeogh and Leah O’Reilly aim to accessorise peoples lives with fun, high quality affordable jewellery.

Founded by Olivia Jenkins in 2021, D. Louise creates timeless long-lasting yet affordable jewellery.

It was established in 2009, with the ethos that jewellery should say a lot about who you are, whether big and bold or delicate and gold. The eclectic collection draws inspiration from founder Abby Kaye’s past experiences and travels through India, as well as her childhood in London and love of nature. Scream Pretty’s signature style is the curated ear – combining piercings and ear cuffs, to create bold stand out styling. Olivia’s pursuit began when she identified a gap in the jewellery market – the need for everyday pieces that wouldn’t fade after a few wears – with this every piece comes with a lifetime guarantee against colour fading. After growing up in Singapore, founder Lynette Ong left her job in finance to pursue a dream of using her creativity for the better. Dreamt up on a bicycle ride through Rajasthan, India, the British jewellery brand Memara was launched in 2019, with the aim to create beautiful, timeless yet affordable demi-fine pieces. The ranges include a collaboration with Vogue Williams. Founded by Olivia Jenkins in 2021, D. Louise creates timeless long-lasting yet affordable jewellery. Award winning British Jewellery Brand Scream Pretty was founded by Lucy Lee with her sister Jessica Pearce in 2016. This family run business designs jewellery for self expression; affordable, stylish and fun – jewellery to shout about. Abby is a big believer in the talismanic and restorative power of jewellery, and strives to create designs that are both ethical and fashioned with love. Pieces are made in sterling silver with 18ct gold vermeil. The brand is named after Olivia’s mother Deborah Louise who Olivia sadly lost to cancer in 2017. With the loss of her mother, Olivia felt life was too short to not be truly passionate about the everyday and D.Louise was born.

Inspired by a wealth of artisans selling beautiful jewellery on her travels around Asia, Edge of Ember was born. Deborah is very mindful that the business be as sustainable as possible, and so she uses recycled silver and gold in all of the pieces. The sisters draw inspiration from their combined passion for art, fashion, travel, music, and culture across the South Asian diaspora to unify and celebrate cultural heritage and nostalgia with the present day. These stories of romance, travel and history were the founding concept behind Carousel Jewels: modern jewellery that takes us back. Each piece of jewellery is created from start to finish within a small area of North London. London-based jewellery designer, Deborah Blyth began designing in 2004, whilst living in Italy. Harfi’s mission is to bring affordable, demi-fine jewellery to shoppers, working directly with its artisan partners. The collection includes base earrings and chains, complemented by a range of interchangeable statement pendants to customise your look. The Cult of Youth collection has since expanded to include on-trend, fashionable jewels with a rock ‘n’ roll edge at accessible price points. A silver letter necklace spelling out MAMA became a bestseller, and this motif has been applied to new styles including rings and lockets. Cult of Youth is a London-based silver jewellery brand founded by Kelly Seymour in 2011. The brand started out on a stall at Portobello Market, before being picked up by Urban Outfitters and sold at its stores. With dual Mauritian-Trinidadian heritage and London roots, the co-founder’s mission is to create inspired, authentic, and expressive jewellery made with a conscience. Founder Sally Louise was inspired by the films of grandparents’ time, from Casablanca to Gone with the Wind and Lawrence of Arabia. Her passion for the arts and love of nature combined to influence her process, which finds beauty in imperfections. In 2015, the brand shifted tack as Seymour gave birth to her son, Elvis, and started to document her life as a single mother, entrepreneur and jeweller. Designs are hand crafted through the process of lost wax casting in her studio, and stone setting takes place nearby in Hatton garden. Stellar 79 is a British demi-fine jewellery brand created by sisters Natasha and Sheena.