In this article we will focus on the most popular precious metals used for jewelry: gold, platinum and the fast growing in popularity palladium. This is why they are mixed (alloyed) with other metals, in order to give them the desired properties. It is confusing because the same word is used as a weight measurement for precious stones. Pure gold and platinum are soft metals which are extremely dense. This is also where all this “carats” and confusing numbers come into play. Now we go back to precious metals. In fact it is pretty simple.All pure metals in nature are white or gray in color except two, gold – bright yellow and copper- reddish pink. Soft metals are easy to damage, difficult to polish, and unsuitable for detailed work. While really bright in color pure metals are not suitable for fine jewelry because of their softness. That carat is equal to 0.2gr. and have nothing to do with metal fineness. All different colors of precious metals are achieved by mixing these colored metals with white ones.Carat is a confusing name for purity or fineness of precious metals.

Sterling Silver Initial Necklace

To differentiate the one carat from the other, in some standards, weight carat is marked with ct and purity karat with kt or k. We can accept this rule to avoid confusion in further articles, therefore when we address metal purity we will use “karat”. Beware; in most countries you can buy a karat stamp for few dollars. At the time of writing, the price of 950 palladium alloys is about a third of the price of the 18k white gold offering great possibilities for large solid pieces at significantly reduced price. The amazing qualities of this metal are better described in another article where I am comparing it with the white gold alternative.Palladium 950 alloys are as white as the platinum, blending well with white diamonds and eliminating the need of rhodium plating. Karat is used mainly to define purity of gold alloys. Different countries have different standards for gold purity and the most used globally alloys are: 9kt or 375, 10kt or 416, 14kt or 585, 18kt or 750, 21kt or 875 and 22 or 916. The alternative number which alone can be used as hallmark indicates the number of fine gold parts in the alloy out of 1000. The easy way to translate this into a manageable information is to perceive it as the percentage of fine gold used x10. Other used alloys are 900 (90%), 800 (80%) and 585(58.5) also called karat platinum. For example 750 means 75% pure gold content or 18kt.Platinum is used in almost pure form and 95% hallmarked 950 is a standard alloy. One disadvantage though is that quality casting of palladium requires materials and equipment, currently not viable for small workshops. The karat stamp does not have much value without the manufacturers stamp because the declaration of purity is not signed. Variety in gold colors and mechanical properties is achieved by alloying fine gold with one or more other metals. Palladium is a light metal with weight close to the one of sterling silver and much lighter than platinum and high carat gold alloys, thus making it the metal of choice for items like large earrings.

For example to be able to stamp an item as 18k it must content at least 75% of fine gold.

White gold for example is a gold alloy with whitening metals, usually palladium, nickel or silver or combination of them. It is really making all the difference. The same principle applies for platinum and palladium, although these metals are used in much purer form (95% is a standard) and there is not detectible changes in color. Try to find the right craftsman. Then, your goldsmith’s ability to work light will come handy. For example to be able to stamp an item as 18k it must content at least 75% of fine gold. For your fine jewelry pieces choose 18k gold and platinum. The weight of the stud settings is rather small even in the case of large diamonds, thus making the platinum the obvious choice for white metal. Different metals are good for different purposes. 300-400 difference on platinum setting.Besides the aesthetic superiority, the security of platinum setting is immensely greater. As a general rule (and if you can afford it) buy alloys with higher precious metal content. If we mix the same amount of fine gold with 15 % of palladium and 10% of silver we will have good quality white gold. What metal jewelry should I buy? Since the fine gold is always yellow, it is the alloy (base) metals that give the karat gold its color and properties. Another advantage of the platinum studs – they could be made very delicate and retain their strength. That applies mainly for gold, since platinum and palladium are used in almost pure form. If you are looking for big bold and heavy pieces the best is to go for silver with gold accents or the very new precium (25%palladium and silver alloy developed by Handy & Hartman)which may be already on the market at the time you read this article. The difference in price will be insignificant but the difference in strength and safety and quality – vast. Higher than 18k white gold alloys are not possible because the alloying metals are not in sufficient quantity to absorb the yellowness of the pure gold. 18k white gold can be used for heavier, thicker pieces while platinum is the best for delicate settings with a lot of detail. When we come to earrings, especially large ones, choosing lighter alloys is essential. If 8.4% of copper and 16.6% silver is used in the alloy, we will end up with the traditional rich 18k yellow gold color. The remaining 25 percent of alloy metals will determine its color and physical properties. My opinion is that alloys with less than 50% gold content (under 14k) should not be called gold, but gold brass or something else defining the inferior gold content. For yellow, stick to 18k. You can never get the right color in lower karats. 21k or 22k gold is always yellow, very yellow. Palladium is the first choice followed by 14k white. The constant content in 18k gold alloy is always 75% pure gold. 18kt gold or higher have distinctive gold color and real precious metal properties.

How do you say it? Even some of the most sophisticated and modern gold and silver may be signed by the artist who made it.The most common indicator that a bracelet is handmade is the detailed and intricate design. Color, texture, size and design all vary. As molten gold or silver is poured into the mold, the wax image melts and the metal takes its place. Similarly, filigree jewelry is a meticulous handcrafted process. Women’s bracelets in gold and silver are usually crafted with the lost wax technique. The image is sculpted in wax and enveloped in a mold materia. Some artisans reclaim precious silver from photographic negatives. Coconut shells, rattan and terra-cotta. Often, the technique alone will tell you, for example, hand-knotted, braided or woven bracelets. Leather bracelets with cutout motifs or embossing are usually crafted by hand.Thai jewelry by Karen silversmiths shows hand-stamped geometric or floral motifs and beads are usually made of fine silver, which is more malleable than sterling. Wood, bamboo and dried gourds. Most bracelets with natural, sustainable or recycled materials are handmade. Even natural grasses lend themselves to a jeweler’s creativity while art glass beads and pendants can be made from discarded bottles. Always creative, artists craft their bracelets out of innovative, eco-conscious materials. Handmade women’s bracelets each have their own unique characteristics. Colorful magazine pages can become tightly-rolled beads protected by a coat of varnish. Artisans the world over utilize the natural materials at their disposal to create beautiful, sustainable jewelry. Get them in 2-4 business days! Traditional bracelet-making techniques have been passed down over generations around the world.

However coiling fine strands of metal results in Andean filigree jewelry. Today, friends each tie a bracelet on the others arm and make a wish. Macrame and beading are popular everywhere for boho style. Balinese artistry applies polished spirals and tendrils as well as tiny globes known as jawan to sleek silver jewelry. In India, jewelry often depicts religious symbols and meditative mantras. In West Africa, men’s jewelry honors the cow, where bone and horns are incorporated into unique pieces. The hand-knotted bracelets of Guatemala symbolize friendship but evolved from a silent protest for loved ones missing during the country’s armed conflict. Balinese bracelets may also depict dragons, thought to be the protectors of the gods, or the Hindu Barong deity, also a protection symbol. Silver, gold, brass and copper have been popular for thousands of years and are often set with colorful gemstones. In the Andes, sterling silver, leather, and combinations of natural stones are frequently used. The bracelet is worn until it wears out and falls off so the wish will come true. Traditional West African beads are a sign of cultural identity. And a few contemporary artisans even weave or crochet the slender silver strands.Jade was highly prized by the Maya and still has an important place in modern Guatemalan jewelry. And West Africas handmade beadwork is renowned the world over. Artisans in different regions of the world take advantage of unique local resources, such as Brazilian golden grass, leather and coconut shell from Thailand, and carved bone jewelry from Bali. In Bali, silver, gold, bone, wood, brass, and stainless copper adorn handmade jewelry. Motifs stamped into Karen hill tribe silver encourage living in harmony with nature. Global artisans use all sorts of materials in their handcrafted jewelry for men. Amber from the rich mines in southern Mexico adorns the women’s bracelets, necklaces, and earrings of the area. Intricate openwork carving, known as jali, can be seen in bangles from India. Absolutely! Jewelry is an art form that allows makers to express their individuality and cultural influences, and certain designs are used to represent important symbols. In India, bangles or kangans showed a woman was married and are a part of the 16 adornments customarily worn by a Hindu bride. West Africa has a long tradition of beadwork, with beautiful beads made from recycled glass and even plastic becoming popular in recent years. In Perus pre-Hispanic societies, gold represented the sun, and jewelry indicated social status and identity, as it also did among the Maya of Mexico and Central America.